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The first turning on the right beyond the Valide Hani takes us
into Uzun Carsi Caddesi, the Avenue of the Long Market. This is the
site of the city's secondhand clothing market, where the poor of the
city sell one another clothing. About half a kilometer down this
street we come to the great Rustem Pasa Mosque, one of the most
beautiful of the smaller mosques of Sinan.
This mosque was built in 1561 by Rustem Pasa, twice Grand Vezir
under Suleyman the Magnificent and husband of the Sultan's favorite
daughter, the Princess Mihrimah.
The mosque is built on a high terrace over an interesting complex of
vaulted shops, the rent from which went to maintain the foundation.
Interior flights of steps lead up from the corners of the platform
to a spacious and beautiful courtyard, unique in the city. The
mosque is preceded by a double porch: first the usual type of porch
consisting of five domed bays, and then, projecting from this, a
deep and low-slung penthouse roof, its outer edge resting on a row
of columns.
This arrangement is very pleasant and has a definite architectural
unity. The plan of the mosque consist of an octagon inscribed in a
rectangle; the dome rest on four semi domes, not in the axes but in
the diagonals of the building; the arches of the dome spring from
four octagonal pillars, two on the north, two on the south, and from
piers projecting from the east and west walls. To north and south
are galleries supported by pillars and by small marble columns
between them.
Rustem Pasa Mosque is especially famous for its very fine tiles,
which almost cover the walls, not only on the interior but also on
the fa ade of the porch. One should also climb to the galleries
where the tiles are of a different pattern.
Like all the great Turkish tiles, those of Rustem Pasa came from the
kilns of Iznik in its greatest period (c.1555 - 1620) and they show
the tomato-red or 'Armenian bole', which is characteristic of that
period. These exquisite tiles, in every conceivable floral and
geometric design, cover not only the walls, but also the columns,
mihrab, and member. Altogether they make one of the most beautiful
and striking mosque interiors in the city. |